Trekking poles give you two extra points of contact, easing the load on your knees during descents and steadying you on rough ground. But most of that benefit depends on getting trekking pole sizing and technique right — a pole set to the wrong length or held with a white-knuckle grip works against you. Here is how to set them up and use them well.

Getting the Right Trekking Pole Length

The baseline is simple: stand on flat ground in your hiking footwear, hold the grip, and plant the tip beside your foot. Your elbow should sit at roughly a right angle, forearm parallel to the ground.

• With adjustable poles, set that length as your neutral position and note the number printed on the shaft so you can return to it quickly.
• If a pole has two adjustable sections, keep the lower one near its middle range and fine-tune with the upper — the pole stays stronger that way.
• Buying fixed-length poles? Multiplying your height in centimeters by about 0.68 gets you close; confirm with the elbow test before committing.
• Locks matter more than materials. Test that lever locks hold firm under body weight; a pole that slips on a steep descent is worse than no pole.

Hold the Straps the Right Way

The strap, not your grip, should carry the load — and most people wear it backwards.

• Bring your hand up through the bottom of the loop, then grab the grip so the strap runs under your palm and across the back of your wrist.
• Adjust the strap so you can push down through it with an open, relaxed hand. Your fingers steer; the strap bears weight.
• This saves real energy over a day and prevents the forearm fatigue that comes from squeezing the grips.
• One honest caveat: on terrain where a fall is possible — boulders, exposed scrambles — slip your hands out of the straps. A wrist trapped in a loop during a fall can turn a stumble into a sprain or worse.

Adjusting for Uphill, Downhill, and Sidehills

Your neutral length is a starting point, not a fixed setting.

• Sustained climbs: shorten poles by 5–10 cm so your hands are not riding at shoulder height. Plant, then push back as you step through.
• Descents: lengthen by 5–10 cm. Plant the pole ahead of you before your foot lands, and let your arms absorb part of each step. This is where poles pay off most, especially under a loaded pack.
• Sidehill traverses: grip lower on the uphill pole (many grips have an extended section for exactly this) rather than fiddling with locks every few minutes.
• Rhythm: on easy ground, swing poles opposite to your legs, just like your arms move naturally. On steep, rough steps, plant both poles together and step up or down between them.

When to Stow Your Poles

Poles help until they don't. Collapse them and lash them to your pack when you need hands for scrambling, ladders, or steep rock, and in dense brush where tips snag constantly. Never leave poles dangling from your wrists while climbing with your hands. Fit rubber tip protectors for long stretches of pavement or smooth rock slabs — they grip better there and cut the clicking noise — and go back to bare carbide tips on dirt, gravel, and ice.

FAQ

Should I hike with one pole or two?

Two poles give balanced support and the full knee-relief benefit on descents; one pole is better than none and keeps a hand free. If you carry just one, swap sides regularly to avoid loading one shoulder all day.

Do trekking poles really save your knees?

They shift part of each step's work to your arms and shoulders, and the difference is most noticeable descending with a loaded pack. They are not magic — technique, pack weight, and leg strength still matter more — but the relief on long downhills is real for most hikers.

What length should fixed poles be if I'm between sizes?

Size down. A slightly short pole is comfortable on climbs and flat ground, while a too-long pole forces your elbows high all day; you can also grip fixed poles a little lower, but you cannot grip above the handle.